Monthly Archives: March 2016

Moving an Apple Tree

This is what we found when we googled ‘Moving a Tree’

‘Established trees and shrubs should be only moved if necessary as even with the best care the tree or shrub may fail to thrive or even die.’

Our daughter planted a Cox’s Pippin Apple seed when she was 7 years old in Scotland. It germinated and at first it grew in the house. Then because we thought it wouldn’t survive we planted it out of the way, behind the greenhouse. Here it grew well, and its size meant another move.

Apple Tree can be seen against the fence

Apple Tree can be seen against the fence

Hannah dressed for her Prom 2007, age 17

Hannah dressed for her Prom 2007, age 17

From here it was moved to a sunny spot, beside the garden shed, where it stayed until last year, winter 2015.

Scotland 2007

 

 

Closer view of the tree against the fence Hannah nearly 18 Tree age 11

Closer view of the tree against the fence
Hannah nearly 18
Tree age 11

 

By this time, our daughter was nearly 26, so the tree was nearly 19 years old.  Only once did it bear a little fruit, the only year we used a paintbrush to try and pollinate the flowers manually.  In other years blossom came and went but never formed any fruit.

However we didn’t want to leave it behind when we moved down to Wales last year, so a special trip was arranged.

The tree was pruned hard and dug up very carefully during the winter.  As many roots as possible were recovered intact from the ground together with some soil.  Surprisingly the tree came out quite easily. Then the roots were wrapped tightly in plastic bags to hold in moisture and it was loaded into a trailer for its long journey south.

Moving a Tree to a new home from Scotland March 2015

Moving a Tree to a new home from Scotland
March 2015

 

 

 

 

 

 

Apple Tree arriving in Wales

Apple Tree arriving in Wales

 

 

 

 

 

New hole dug for planting (March 2015)

Plenty of fertilizer was applied and the tree’s roots were slightly trimmed.  At the time of planting, a professional gardener under the name of James Hyde, James Hyde Gardening was planting the orchard for us, and he very kindly planted it for us, staking it very well, and securing it into the ground firmly.

Soil removed from hole

Soil removed from hole

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Apple tree secured firmly with 2 stakes

Apple tree secured firmly with 2 stakes

Apple Tree in new position

Apple Tree in new position

Wales 2015

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So we watered the tree very well and although we weren’t too confident that it would survive the transplant, this is how it looked in April 2015 and June 2015

Apple Tree one month later in April 2015

Apple Tree one month later in April 2015

Apple Tree in leaf in June 2015

Apple Tree in leaf in June 2015

Wales 2015

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is a great result to see the little tree now growing in its new home!

We are waiting with anticipation to see how it fares in 2016!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The Orchard

Springdale Orchard is born

Spring at Springdale

Apple Blossom

Planting an orchard is a dream we’ve always had.
We decided early in 2015 that we would use field 1 and plant some fruit trees straight away.

An Orchard is born at Springdale

Field 1

The ground is gently sloping and faces the sun all day.  It is well drained but the soil is quite heavy in the field.

sloping field a

A large number of questions loomed due to our lack of knowledge. The planning however is all part of the fun.

Which trees?

Which trees?

Which trees should we choose and why?
Where should we purchase them from?

How big
What does rootstock mean?
Which rootstocks should we choose?

How old should the trees be?
How should they be planted and what should the spacing be?

Field 1 with canes and view direction

Field 1 with canes and view direction

Do they need staking, protecting?
When should they be planted?
Should we pay someone to plant them?

Pollination partners

Pollination partners

Answers to some questions prompted more questions as we discovered and learned more about planting an orchard. For example pollination questions and the need to choose ‘compatible’ apple trees.
Most apple trees need another compatible apple tree (which must be of a different variety) nearby in order for the blossom to set fruit and produce apples.

The key to proper fruit tree pollination is timing.  For example: any early-season variety will pollinate another early-season variety.
So if you’re only planting 2 trees, it’s best to plant trees that will bloom at the same time.

Which trees should we choose?

Choosing fruit trees

Choosing fruit trees

Not knowing many varieties of apples, we decided to email a few nurseries to see what they suggested for a small orchard of around 30 trees, giving them our location and land aspect. Some favourites we definitely wanted were Cox, Russet and Bramley Apples; Pershore and Victoria Plums; some Pear trees and a damson variety.
So we want some apples to eat straight away, some to use for cooking; pears to eat; plums and damsons to eat and to use for jam making.

Jam Making

Jam Making

Replies to these emails were very useful and gave us a lot of information for our site.  We were also able to research the different varieties to find out what the fruit was like.

We chose our selection based on what we found out from this research and the nurseries’ information. This includes our above criteria and also fruit that crops throughout the year, not all at the same time. (There is a detailed diagram of our final tree selection and their positions  below)

List of fruit trees - part 1

List of fruit trees purchased – part 1

List of fruit trees part 2

List of fruit trees purchased part 2

We chose the nursery who could supply the majority of our selection in one delivery.  Also the nursery who had best answered our enquiry.

The above lists show the fruit trees we bought and which are now planted at Springdale.

The table below shows how the trees are laid out in Field 1

Layout of canes for tree planting to obtain correct spacing

Layout of canes for tree planting to obtain correct spacing

6 5 4 3 2 1
Charles Ross

Cooking Apple

James Grieve

Apple

Sunset Apple Golden Delicious Apple Malus Katy

Apple

Sturmer Pippin Apple A
Rosette Apple

maiden

John Downie

Crab Apple

Lord Derby

Apple

Herefordshire

Russet Apple

Golden Hornet Crab Apple Barnock Beauty Apple B
Red Falstaff Apple Bramley Cooking Apple Bardsley Apple Scrumptious Apple Bountiful Apple Blenheim Orange Apple C
Concorde Pear Conference Pear William Bon Chretien Pear Pershore Purple Plum Pershore Purple Plum Cox Orange Pippin Apple D
Moonglow Pear Catillac French Pear Marjorie’s Seedling Plum Rivers Early Prolific Plum Old Greengage Plum E
Shropshire Prune Damson Langley Bullace Damson Victoria Plum F

Tree Layout in table form

As fruit tree labels break and blow away from time to time its useful to make a note of tree positions, which are shown in the table above.

What about Rootstock?

What does ‘rootstock’ mean and which to choose?

The rootstock determines how big each tree will grow to. If you grow a fruit tree from a pip, the tree may grow to 5-6m high or taller. So it will not be easy to reach the fruit. If you opt for a dwarf rootstock, you can limit it’s growth to as small as 1.5m.  Rootstocks are chosen and grafted on from a related species. This will restrict the growth to the size of the original roots and keep the tree to a manageable size.
With this in mind we chose MM106 rootstock for our apple trees which means our trees will grow to between 3m and 4.5m.

Examples of different rootstocks

Examples of different rootstocks

For the pear trees we chose rootstock Quince A
And for plums and damsons the nursery had rootstock St. Julien available.

All the trees should then grow to roughly the same size, which means we can have regular spacing between all the trees and the fruit will not be too high for picking.
You can find lists of rootstocks and their descriptions on most fruit tree sellers’ websites and then choose according to your available land and space.

Bare Root Fruit Trees being planted

Tree Planting

Tree Planting

Allow plenty of room for the trees to grow in future years, by checking your rootstocks for height and spread.

Mark out your land with canes to ensure there is the correct spacing for trees.

Bare Roots Visible on Tree

Bare Roots Visible on Tree

A bare root fruit tree will arrive in a dormant state.  It should be planted as soon as possible after receiving it, but not if the ground is frozen.

Check that the depth of planting matches the original by looking at the base for the soil mark on the trunk

Check that the depth of planting matches the original by looking at the base for the soil mark on the trunk

Dig a large sized hole at least a third wider than the roots. Hammer in a stake before inserting the tree into the hole to avoid damaging the roots.

Dig plenty of well-rotted manure or compost into the hole.

Make sure the tree is at the same level that it was planted in the nursery,

Fill the hole with soil around the roots and gently firm the soil in with the sole of your boot.  This process removes air-pockets from around the roots.

Secure the tree to the stake with a tree tie.

If you have rabbits or deer in the area, you MUST protect the trees immediately.  The trees will need protecting from the first night they are in the ground.  Rabbits and hares are the most serious problem, as they will eat the bark and this can be fatal for the tree.  The best protection is a plastic spiral tree guard.  These can be easily removed after a few years when the bark is older and tougher.